Fat Vs Plus Mountain Bike Tyres | GMBN Tech Geek Edition
Fat Vs Plus Mountain Bike Tyres | GMBN Tech Geek Edition
Neil’s following up on Blake’s recent Fat Vs Plus bike video, and taking a more scientific approach to the comparison, rather than going mostly on sensations…
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There’s lots to talk about when it comes to comparing tyres, here Neil is going over the main things he considers when making tyre choices. If there’s anything you think we’ve missed, or specifics you look for let us know in the comments below. 🤓
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More GMBN Tech videos…
Fat Vs “Plus” Bike – http://gmbn.eu/fatvsplus 📹
Are Fatbikes fast? – http://gmbn.eu/FATBIKESFAST 📹
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Do a comparison test using 29er plus and 29er plus full suspension bikes.
Tire footprint is a function of tire pressure. Your weight divided by pressure equals footprint.
Your knobs per footprint on Perspex doesn’t take into account deformation of irregular surfaces, like rocks and roots.
Run tubeless, unless you’re just out playing and like using patches. It saves weight and those tubes aren’t small.
As someone said, put in some miles. Try tires, sizes, and pressures. What’s too high and too low for what conditions?
The comment about tubeless not being worthwhile on fat tires is not just wrong but super wrong. Possibly the worst bit of advice ever given on GMBN.
Funny that you call Blake out for incorrectly calling 2.6 as plus and yet you make a comparison video called fat vs plus and you use that same 2.6 throughout the comparison and call it plus too 🙄
The larger the volume of tire, the lower the tire pressure needed to achieve the same amount of surface tension. I believe the formula is Tension = Pressure x Diameter, so if we take a tire pressure of 19.5 on a 2.35" tire, we only need 16.43psi to achieve the same tension on a 2.8" plus tire, or 9.56psi on a 4.8" fat tire. Some neat math, and also shows Fatty tires running at those ridiculously low pressures are still quite capable at holding the tire on.
Great counterpart video to Blakes!
Thank you for the video and in depth comparison/explanations. I understand the idea somewhat. Do you think a 24×2.35 tire would outperform a 20×4 tire? Which would be better for the snow?
Fat bike rolled faster down hill because it was heavier.
Hey guys. As someone who rocks a fat bike regularly I gotta say you aren’t getting the full effect without going tubeless. Lower pressures are where they really shine. You’ll know they’re set right when you stop bouncing around and this will also put far more tread in contact with the ground. The big issue with this on harder terrain is sidewall compression, there’s now 27.5 fat tires and they have shorter sidewalls which addresses this issue.
Where can I purchase those 100 mil
I suspect the improved rolling resistance is due to the fewer knobs and the rotational mass helping while going downhill. It’d be interesting to see how the two compare for climbs from a stop.
I don’t get the idea of the fat tyres threads. If the tyres are so wide shouldn’t their teeth be also bigger? They look like a stretched 2.2
The rolling resistance test would have been better off if you go by distance. Like where you stopped rolling after the hill is over.
Ride fat! You know you wanna!
Why not call the 2.6 a ‘faux plus’, as it aint a plus but its fatter than your avg mtb tyre
Can you fit 3.00 on 2.80 bikes
Great to meet Neil and Blake leaving Fort William yesterday, lovely guys! I’m very tempted by a plus bike now…
I have one question:
can I use 49mm intro rims whis tires 29×2.2 and 29×3.0?
And what problems I can gotten?
I need help. I wish to know if Silverback double scoop fatbike is a good brand and quality to buy from?
Trek runs 27.5 fat bike rims lately
So what tire size would be recommended for clydesdale riders? I love the look of the fat tire bikes but want to be safe as well. I’m just getting into biking so I’m not sure which size to go with.
My only issue with fat is the tendency to self-steer in the front. Other than that they’re awesome!
This reminded me of a Discovery channel Daily Planet explanation. They talked about momentum and wheel size Using a skateboard wheel as an extreme for rolling over road dust.Will you do coast down tests for air resistance?
I Almost bought an Fat ebike. New tariffs resulted in choosing a 2.8 × 27.5 plus. Love the bike but it’s not nimble to say the least…can’t imagine a larger tyre.
Fatbikes are awesome!
I’ve learned that around women it’s smarter to use "Plus" as opposed to "Fat"…so I wouldn’t recommend you talk about this topic around a crowd of strangers….
2018, the day and age of the Minus Plus Tyre
First let me say I am a GMBN fan. I enjoy the videos. However, I am a plus sized and fat sized tire rider. I have been for years. I know GMBN wants to make videos that are of interest, but I can’t help but feel that they don’t really ride these bikes much or really know much about them. The video calls this "tech geek", but I can’t help feeling like Neil is just spreading the tired old nonsense about bigger tires and their setup.
First pick a proper plus sized tire. Second put a caliper on them if you are going to talk for almost 10 minutes at a work bench if this is "geek" and "tech". Please stop with the nonsense about needing tubes, It is your crappy DT wheels. The only wheel that is worse is Weinmann because they can’t do tubeless right either. An axle isn’t 15mm "width", although that was likely just a mistake. While I’m at it, a real plus sized tire really needs much over a 30mm rim. Your tire pressure guesses indicate you don’t ride plus or fat.
In short stop messing with your "almost" a plus bike, and your tubed fat bike and then claiming you have some insight. Fix your fat bike, and get a real plus bike. Then ride them both 1000 miles. Then post a video.
loads of info there!👍
I run my 27.5 x 3 with tubes between 20-25 psi. According to this video, seems right. Cheers Neil!💯
So I have purchased a used pair of enve m60 40 plus internal is 40m I want to run a 2.6 I got a great deal what are your thoughts please advise thanks 🙏
3.0 plus tires 👍
@gmbntech should retest this, with the fat bike and plus bike shod with maxxis minions front and rear for a fair comparison and on a 27.5 fat rim to make it a fair test also have both bikes set up tubeless
Can you have a combination of a plus size at the front and a fat one at the rear, similar to adventure motorcycles?
Random question can you just buy fat bike tyres and add them to ur mountain bike
4:24 only real bikers will spot it
…the fat tires are heavier, so yeah If you are rolling down hill the fat tires are gonna be faster…but much slower pedaling up hill. I ride 4in fatties on my ebike and they are dang near impossible to ride normally.
what is the tire width?
I have plus 3.0 and fat 4.9, love them both. No more scrawny tires for me!
Tubeless for a fatbike is a massive advantage. You could reduce the rotating mass with a coulpe of hundred grams per wheel by doing that. You will achieve reduced rolling resistance, especially at low tyre pressures. Also, snake bites will be a thing of the past with tubeless. Another experience is reduced self steer and a overall quicker feel of the bike. Go tubeless!
That’s a 27.5, not a Plus Tire.
Fatbike advantages on the trails (not snow — I have never ridden a fatbike on snow😂in my 7 years of riding them):
• late braking (assuming you have decent trail tires such as the Maxxis Minion FBR/FBF) when you realise you’ve perhaps not taken the best turn in line in the corner
• less fatigue (as Neil indicated) whilst bombing down technical chunky stuff such as rock gardens
• IMMENSE uphill climbing traction (as Neil mentioned in this video and as Blake mentioned in the associated video comparing the plus bike to the fat bike)
• everyone thinks you’re on an e-bike (since most tossers around these parts ride fat ebikes)
• carry more momentum on dowhill chunky sections without associated arm pump or upper body/arm/shoulder/wrist/hand fatigue
@1:41 please tell us that’s dried mud and not dog shit on your tire xD …could pass for either.
Contact patch size is only defined by air pressure. You have some pounds per square inch. Apply weight in pounds, and you can calculate square inches. Of course you can run bigger tires at lower pressure, thus getting a bigger patch, without achieving too much deformation. If you run a 26 x 1.90 at 10 psi, theorical contact patch would be too big for the tire and would have to be almost with the rim on the floor.
My fat bike uses a 3.8" tyre, the informal term is "mid-fat", where-as a fat bike can be anything up to 5"+. Wide handlebars are a must, I bought the bike came retro-fitted with some narrower bars, it was the guy’s wife’s bike, maybe she didn’t like reach out that far. Either way, it was impossible to steer comfortably. 780mm+ or go home.
great call out on 2.6 NOT being a plus tyre, the tyre height isn’t even close to something like a 3.0
And I thought my 2.3 were wide
2.6 is my preferred wheel since it has the positives of small and big tires.
It’s very grippy and good for casing and small bumps, plus it’s not to hard to accelerate and turn
The rolling test at the end was very telling. Fat ftw! 🙂
WRONG Tubeless at 4 – 8 psi makes a MASSIVE difference on a fat bike tyre. Rolling resistance is way way lower with tubeless.
Mate, wanna buy a marlin 7 2020 later, wanna know can i replace the rims with the 27.5’ 25mm inner and 2.6 tires with stock front shox?